Good evening,
Another day in the books. Today we went onto the outer part of the mountain and practiced our ice traveling techniques - cramponing, rest stepping, how to walk, pressure breathing, etc....mostly review but always nice to have before you step onto a mountain. The most exciting part was diving down the mountain head first, picking up speed, and then performing self arrest. We also did some avalanche stuff, which included the guides burying the beacons in the snow and then the climbers had to find them - more difficult than you think!! We actually pulled into the parking lot and started from where you see all the web cams. If anyone was watching today, they may have even seen the big blue and white RMI buses coming and going.
When we left this AM, the bus drove us to 5,000 feet and then we climbed to 6,000 for the training. Its funny seeing snow still on the ground in the middle of July with 70 degree temperatures, but that should give you an idea of how much snow Rainier got from April - June.
Myself and 3 of the other team members left base camp for dinner tonight to get some food of substance. So, after a full plate of linguine with mozzarella and chicken, and then a piece of cheesecake, I think I'm carb loaded and ready to go for tomorrow.
Speaking of tomorrow - we will have an early start leaving base camp at 7AM. We will be driven to the White River Campground at 4,000 feet and we will start the climb from there. The days will be broken down like this:
Tomorrow: Climb from 3,000 to 7,800 feet.
Monday: Climb from 7,800 feet to 9,400 feet (Camp Shurman).
Tuesday AM: Climb from 9,400 feet to the 14,411 foot summit.
No easy days in sight, thats for sure. The weather is perfect, however, the freezing level is supposed to drop over the next few days, leaving us with a windy and cold summit night.
Ive been told we will have cell phone coverage on that side of the mountain, but Ill believe it when I see it. If we do have coverage, Ill be sending those short, quick, messages to the blog because thats the fastest way to do it, and then Ill post a long blog through the sat phone at night. It's going to be very difficult to send messages on summit night because it will be cold and pitch black. The only ones I may be able to send, unless I can use the cell, will be right before we leave and then a call from the summit. If the cell works, Ill be sending numbers only, to give you an idea at what altitude we are at. Hopefully it will be warm enough for me to take my gloves off and do this, if not, we'll have to keep everyone waiting until we get to the summit before doing a posting or a call.
I had the sat phone working perfectly, however, when I went to send a message tonight, I accidentally hit the wrong button (Trying to use a stylus or your fingers on a tiny typing device is very difficult) and hit the "delete" button instead of the "connect" button on the phone. So, it deleted my ISP connection and I have been unable to contact the company to fix it. Im going to try HP in a few minutes to see if they can help. If not, I might have to rely on calling the messages in instead of posting them. I know this set up has been a mild disaster with alot of twists and turns, but this is exactly why I did it on this trip - so Aconcagua will be smooth and I can have the kinks worked out. My guess is Im not the first one to delete this info, so Im sure someone can fix it.
Anyways - Gotta go get packed and ready to leave bright an early tomorrow. I wont have time to do a post, so this will be it from the laptop! Physical training is done, technical training is done, and tomorrow is the day everyone has been waiting for. It's sorta like practice in college - it eventually gets boring and you are ready for the game! And this bunch is certainly ready for the game!
Everyone cross your fingers for good weather and good luck!! Im off to the summit!!!
Talk to everyone on Wednesday!
Onward and upward,
SZ
Good luck on the cell or sat phone connection. The National Park Service site points out that of the 10,000 climbers attempting Rainier each year only about 52% are successful. Here is some info from the NPS.
ReplyDeleteMount Rainier, the most heavily glaciated peak in the contiguous United States, offers an exciting challenge to the mountaineer. Each year thousands of people successfully climb this 14,410 foot active volcano.
Reaching the summit requires a vertical elevation gain of more than 9,000 feet over a distance of eight or more miles. Climbers must be in good physical condition and well prepared. Proper physical conditioning can offset the effects of fatigue that lead to mistakes and injuries.
Weather, snow, and route conditions can change rapidly, making the difference between a pleasant and rewarding experience or tragedy. Before beginning a climb, obtain a current weather forecast. During your climb, turn back if weather conditions deteriorate. Severe winter-like storms on the mountain are not uncommon during the summer.
Climbers must follow low impact camping regulations.
Camping is allowed only on permanent snow or ice, or on bare ground areas previously used as campsites. Clearing new tent sites on rocky or snowfree areas is prohibited.
Travel on established trails to avoid damaging fragile alpine vegetation.
Climbers must register and pay the climbing fee prior to climbing and must check out upon return. Anyone climbing on glaciers, or above 10,000 feet, must register and pay the climbing fee.
Solo travel above high camps or anywhere on glaciers is not permitted except with prior written permission from the Superintendent. You may download a Solo Climb Request Form (Word document, 83 KB) or you may request this form by writing: Superintendent, Mount Rainier National Park, 55210 238th Avenue East, Ashford, WA 98304.
Anyone younger than 18 years of age must have the permission of a parent or legal guardian before climbing above normal high camps.
Engaging in any business in park areas except in accordance with the provisions of a permit, contract, or other written agreement is prohibited. Leading or participating in an unauthorized guided climb of Mount Rainier is illegal (Title 36, Code of Federal Regulations).
Climbing parties with one or more members who have already purchased a Mount Rainier Climbing Pass for the current year must also complete and submit a Climbing Party Supplemental Form (PDF, 366KB). This additional form ensures that your party is not charged climbing fees for those already possessing a valid climbing pass when requesting reservations.
More Information: Climbing Reservation Policies and Climbing Pass FAQ's